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Fabric Sourcing••5 min read

Moisture-Wicking Fabric: How It Works and Which Fibres Wick Best

Moisture-wicking fabric moves sweat away from your skin so it can dry. How wicking works, which fibres do it best, why cotton does not, and what to ask a mill for when you choose activewear fabric.

By John Grentner

Man in a black fitted t-shirt and black joggers carrying an orange sports bag on a park path

In brief

  • Moisture-wicking fabric moves sweat away from your skin to the outside of the fabric, where it can evaporate.
  • It works by capillary action through fine fibres that take up little water, such as polyester, nylon and polypropylene.
  • Cotton does not wick: it absorbs sweat and holds it, so it gets heavy and cold when wet.
  • The knit and finish matter as much as the fibre. Wicking is tested with standard methods such as AATCC TM197 and TM201.

What moisture wicking means

Wicking is liquid moving through a fabric by capillary action, the same effect that draws water up a paper towel. Sweat travels along the tiny gaps between fibres, away from the skin and out to the face of the fabric. There it spreads over a larger area and evaporates faster, so you feel drier.

Where the sweat goes

  1. Cotton

    Absorbs sweat into the fibres and holds it, so the fabric gets heavy, clings and feels cold when it is wet.

  2. Wicking knit

    Fibres that take up little water carry sweat along and through the fabric to the outside, where it spreads out and evaporates.

Wicking does not make sweat disappear; it moves it to where it can evaporate.

Why polyester wicks and cotton does not

The key is how much water the fibre itself absorbs. The EU's fibre-labelling rules use standard moisture allowances that show the difference: 1.5% for polyester, 5.75 to 6.25% for nylon and 8.5% for cotton. A fibre that takes up little water leaves the sweat in the spaces between fibres, where it can move and evaporate. A fibre that soaks it up holds it against the skin.

How common fibres handle sweat. The yarn and knit change the details.
FibreWater it absorbsWickingNotes
PolyesterVery littleGoodThe usual performance fibre; dries fast, can hold odour
NylonA little moreGoodSofter and stronger; dries a little slower
PolypropyleneAlmost noneVery goodUsed in base layers; hard to dye
Merino woolA lot, as vapourModerateStays warm when damp and resists odour
CottonA lotPoorComfortable when dry; heavy and cold when wet
Viscose, including bamboo viscoseA lotPoorSoft and cool, but slow to dry

Our polyester vs nylon guide compares the two main performance fibres in more detail.

It is not just the fibre

  • Fine filaments. Microfibre yarns made from many fine filaments create more, smaller channels for sweat to travel along.
  • Shaped fibres. Some performance polyesters have grooved cross-sections instead of round ones, which move moisture faster.
  • Knit structure. Mesh and bird's-eye knits let air through. Two-layer knits with a water-repellent inside and an absorbent outside pull sweat outward.
  • Finishes. A hydrophilic finish helps a fabric wick, but some finishes wash out over time. Fabric softener can coat the fibres and reduce wicking, so care labels often say not to use it.
Smiling woman in a black half-zip training top with red piping, standing with one hand on her hip
Training tops are usually polyester knits, sometimes with mesh panels where you sweat most.

How wicking is tested

  • AATCC TM197: vertical wicking, how far and how fast liquid climbs a fabric strip.
  • AATCC TM198: horizontal wicking, how far a drop spreads across the fabric.
  • AATCC TM201: drying rate, measured on a heated plate.
  • AATCC TM195: liquid moisture management, how sweat moves through the fabric from one side to the other.

"Moisture-wicking" on a fabric spec sheet is a claim, not a measurement. Ask the mill for test results, and if you call your garments moisture-wicking, keep the results on file to back the claim up.

Choosing fabric for activewear

  • Training tees and running tops: polyester jersey or mesh, often with a little elastane.
  • Leggings and sports bras: nylon or polyester with elastane; see spandex vs elastane for how much stretch fibre to use.
  • Base layers: polyester, polypropylene or merino.
  • Team kits: polyester, which also takes sublimation printing for all-over designs.

At Nevear the minimum is typically 50 pieces per item, samples take 2–3 weeks, and bulk orders usually arrive 3–4 weeks from the order date, shipping included. See our sportswear and leggings pages for the activewear we make.

Frequently asked questions

Is polyester moisture-wicking?

Yes. Polyester absorbs very little water, so sweat stays between the fibres where it can move and evaporate. Performance polyesters with fine or shaped fibres wick best.

Is cotton moisture-wicking?

No. Cotton absorbs sweat into its fibres and holds it, so it gets heavy and cold when wet. It is comfortable for everyday wear but not for hard exercise.

What is the best moisture-wicking fabric?

For most activewear, a polyester or nylon knit made from fine filaments, often with elastane for stretch. Polypropylene wicks very well in base layers, and merino suits cold conditions.

Does moisture-wicking wear off?

Wicking that comes from the fibre and knit lasts the life of the garment. Wicking from a chemical finish can fade with washing, and fabric softener reduces it.

How should I wash moisture-wicking clothes?

Wash cool or warm, skip fabric softener, and line dry or tumble dry on low. Heat and softener both reduce how well the fabric wicks.

Making activewear?

Tell us the garment, how it will be used and your quantities, and we will suggest a fabric and confirm it in your quote.

See our sportswear

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