What jersey fabric is
Jersey is a weft-knitted fabric: a single yarn is looped row by row across the width of the fabric, usually on a circular knitting machine. Single jersey, the standard kind, is knitted on one set of needles, which gives it two different sides. The face shows neat columns of small Vs; the back shows rows of little loops.
Jersey, rib and interlock stitches
Single jersey, face
Rows of small Vs. Smooth and flat; the side printed on most t-shirts.
Single jersey, back
Rows of little arcs. Rougher to the touch; the edges tend to curl.
1x1 rib
Columns of Vs alternate with sunken columns. Very stretchy across, for cuffs, collars and fitted tops.
Interlock
Two layers knitted together, so both sides look like a jersey face. Thicker and stable; it does not curl.
The name comes from the island of Jersey, in the Channel Islands, where knitted woollen fabric was made for centuries. Today jersey is knitted from cotton, polyester, viscose and blends, often with a little elastane for stretch.
How jersey behaves
- It stretches, more across the width than along the length. With elastane it stretches both ways.
- It drapes and breathes, which is why it is comfortable next to the skin.
- Its cut edges curl. That is why jersey hems are folded and stitched, usually with a coverstitch.
- It can twist. Single jersey can twist after washing, pulling the side seams round towards the front. Good knitting, compacting and careful cutting reduce it; wash the sample to check.
- A snag can ladder in fine jersey, as it can in tights, so thin jerseys need careful handling.
Types of jersey
| Jersey | Typical weight | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton single jersey | 140–220 GSM | Everyday and printed t-shirts |
| Heavyweight cotton jersey | 220–300 GSM | Boxy streetwear tees |
| Slub jersey | 130–180 GSM | Fashion tees with an uneven, textured look |
| Tri-blend jersey | 130–170 GSM | Soft, drapey tees with a vintage feel |
| Cotton/elastane jersey | 160–220 GSM | Fitted tees, dresses and lounge leggings |
| Polyester performance jersey | 130–180 GSM | Sports tees and team kits |
| Viscose or modal jersey | 140–200 GSM | Drapey tops and dresses |
Weight is given in GSM, grams per square metre; our GSM guide explains it. The yarn matters as much as the weight: our ring-spun vs combed cotton guide explains why a combed ring-spun jersey feels softer.
Jersey vs interlock vs rib
| Single jersey | Interlock | Rib | |
|---|---|---|---|
| How it is knitted | One set of needles | Two sets, interlocked | Two sets, alternating |
| Look | Vs on the face, loops on the back | Smooth Vs on both sides | Vertical ridges |
| Stretch | Moderate, mostly across | Less; firm and stable | High across, with strong recovery |
| Edges | Curl | Lie flat | Lie flat |
| Used for | T-shirts, tops, dresses | Thicker tees, babywear, dresses | Cuffs, collars, tank tops, fitted tops |
French terry and fleece are relatives of jersey with extra loops on the back; our French terry vs fleece guide covers them.
How to specify jersey
- Composition and yarn: for example "100% combed ring-spun cotton single jersey, Ne 30/1".
- Weight: the GSM, with a tolerance such as plus or minus 5%.
- Finish: whether the fabric is compacted, and any wash such as an enzyme or silicone wash for softness.
- Limits: the maximum shrinkage and twist after washing, checked on the sample.
- Trims: the rib for the neckline, and whether it contains elastane.
At Nevear the minimum is typically 50 pieces per item, samples take 2–3 weeks, and bulk orders usually arrive 3–4 weeks from the order date, shipping included. See our t-shirt and tank top pages for the styles we make.